FASHION WEEK TRENDS: GO BIG OR GO HOME

Sleek silhouettes might have reigned the Paris and Milan fashion week catwalks this season but in many of the collections we saw oversized coats, knits and trousers... even belts! More often this trend is neutral in colour if you don't count Issey Miyake and his bright red creation. Perhaps these looks would work better in Europe but if it were cold enough here would you try this trend, or do you prefer a more snug fit for your outerwear?

THOM BROWNE 2012 PARIS FASHION WEEK

You know when you watch a movie and it appears somehow in your dreams? Well it was like Thom Browne watched American Horror Story and the Rocky Horror Picture Show and this collection came of it the following day. Each look suggests a simpler look underneath and features staples like great shoes, scarves, knit hats and nautical trousers. Add to that, heavily exaggerated shoulders that ran through the collection, models ready for some warped fashion-cum-football event. I don't know... there are few collections that actually leave me speechless. Oh look an anchor! 

AGNES B 2012 PARIS FASHION WEEK

Playing with gender-bending elements, Agnès B for Fall 2012 introduces mens tights, or mights/meggings I imagine someone, somewhere will pen them. But in addition to this, ballet pumps, denim skirts and cropped capes. If androgyny can work on women I don't see why men can't do it too. Also featured were some nicely cut burgundy suits with a double-breasted check, or red if you're up to playing a ring-leader. 

PAUL SMITH 2012 PARIS FASHION WEEK

Old Smithy takes us out to see this season, but mostly in the literal translation with jellyfish printed mainline trousers and nautical knits. He tries to simulate the movement of moody water by layering neons under dark knits but takes the accent of neon to the edges of other garments too. We also see the return of old favorites like two-toned trousers, chunky knits and Peter Pan collars. All aboard now.

ANN DEMEULEMEESTER 2012 PARIS FASHION WEEK

Featuring a line-up of goth-like looks that suggest a change in colour preference, Ann Demeulemeester's collection offers long tunics, elongated silhouettes and bursts of electric blue and reds to accent the white and black palette. The star of the show was no doubt the gradient suiting with matching zipper boots. Did you enjoy this collection?

LANVIN 2012 PARIS FASHION WEEK

Stepping out in their signature high-tops, Lanvin models were decked in a series of masterful jackets and suits.  Noticeably, this included dropped shoulders or ballooned sleeves that were matched with super slim or flared trousers (that I think are fantastic). Their palette was moody but still colourful, playful even with prison stripes in navy and dark camel. Wonderful. I really am... Lanvin this collection. 

LOUIS VUITTON 2012 PARIS FASHION WEEK

Marc Jacobs may be trying to keep the chill out but this collection is a breathe of fresh air. Keeping the vintage inspiration theme going for fashion week this season, Louis Vuitton reached back to the 70s and 80s. We see oversized scarves, parkas in bold prints and two-toned suits (yes- one thousand times yes) and a kimono-suit hybrid seen as is or under traditional pin-stripe suiting. 

MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA 2012 PARIS FASHION WEEK

Maison Martin Margiela may be trying to tell us that fashion is disposable. At the rate we go through it I wouldn't be surprised. Still, the other themes running through his newest collection are pretty varied from one end to the other. Wether it's fur lined jackets you're after, motocross pants or more refined looks like that of his camel coats and beige suiting, the house of Margiela is catering for it all, no matter how bizarre.

DIOR HOMME 2012 PARIS FASHION WEEK

Many of this seasons designers focused on fit, but Kris Van Assche leaned the other way. Plenty of oversized looks here with military and sportswear influences. Suits were the focal point but now they are low slung and relaxed compared to former seasons. What do you think?

DRIES VAN NOTEN 2012 PARIS FASHION WEEK

Dries Van Noten unveiled a new season of psychedelic prints mixed in with more classic pieces and construction. And while they may have leaned on the loud side, they didn't overwhelm a collection of masterfully crafter threads.

GIVENCHY 2012 PARIS FASHION WEEK

Givenchy, fashion weeks bad-boy goes stars and stripes for fall/winter 2012. Riccardo Tisci doesn't veer too far away from prior seasons (just check out the kilt/skirt) but ventures to darker streets this time around, certainly L.A hip-hop revisited. What are your thoughts?

HERMES 2012 PARIS FASHION WEEK

In one of my favorite collections at this seasons Paris fashion week, Hermès epitomizes the sort of clothing I hope to own when I grow up. Gorgeous well-tailored and understated pieces galore, this collection sees black and brown as the focal point with accents of white, burgundy and blue. Leather stole the show with shirts, jackets and even full suiting. Marvelous.   

ISSEY MIYAKE 2012 PARIS FASHION WEEK

East meets West with plenty of pleating this season for Issey Miyake. If anything, this collection wants you to be comfortable. It was all about two things, oversized and colourful, with chunky knits, parkas and blazers.

JOHN GALLIANO 2012 PARIS FASHION WEEK

John Galliano may have been absent from this collection but Bill Gaytten made sure there was enough theatrics to make up for it. For his first fall collection (this is his second for J.G) Gaytten goes bold in outerwear: large trenches in sheen, fur jackets and enlarged check. It's like the 50s in the future, featuring all the gangsters and henchman you could expect. Would you join the gang? 

JUNYA WATANABE 2012 PARIS FASHION WEEK

If you go out to the woods today... you will likely see a whole lot of this. A strong series of plaids and flannel thrown in with braced trousers, boots and chunky turtlenecks. Not to discount some fantastic jackets and suiting, wether they're double-breasted or adorned with leather panels you're ready to brave the upcoming cold... or the big bad wolf. 

KENZO 2012 PARIS FASHION WEEK

For their first collection for Kenzo, creative directors Carol Lim and Humberto Leon deliver a playful collection with colour blocking, bold prints and sportswear. A wise choice for a debut because while it's a fun collection the construction of the suits and jackets were done beautifully. A fully wearable range with some wonderful pieces.

3.1 PHILLIP LIM 2012 PARIS FASHION WEEK

Phillip Lim seemed to choose elements of his new show under a microscope. Large belts, chunky shoes and pixelated block prints. He accents these against a mostly white and black palette but includes reds, purples and olive green, covering looks from oversized to slim. Quite the avant-garde collection. What do you think?

RAF SIMONS 2012 PARIS FASHION WEEK

A winter without long trousers? Such was the imagined winter of the Raf Simons man. Certainly more applicable to our weird climate here in Cape Town, or at least the men who refuse to wear closed shoes. I digress. Colour blocking with mostly neutral bottoms we see green suits, fluffy canary yellow sweaters and burgundy knit hats with beady eyes peaking out beneath. Left of centre? Sure, but nicely constructed pieces and a pleasing over-all feel. What were you thoughts?

YVES SAINT LAURENT 2012 PARIS FASHION WEEK

Stefano Pilati focused his latest offering around two elements, fit and leather. So wether you're into small splashes of it or head-to-toe, YSL has you covered, literally. He incorporates leather into the lapels and pockets, full leather shirts and even on a fur-lined vest. And he takes notes from Jay-Z with a palette of "all black everything" or at least mostly, there are those grey pieces.  He accents them with metal braced loafers, presumably so you can step into the next phase of his futuristic vision for the man-about-town.

AWKWARD. JEAN-PAUL GAULTIER AND MOSCHINO IDENTICAL FACE-BRICK PRINT

Usually with a seasonal print or show piece a designer is secure in knowing theirs will be unique. Such was not the case for Moschino who revealed a face-brick printed suit only days before Jean-Paul Gaultier did the same. Certainly a full print can be considered a trend but virtually identical looks? Awkward if you ask me. Or just a really ironic mishap. Either way, would you wear either?